Rideau Canal

June 30-July 8

Days 231-239

What a fantastic addition to our Loop! We began our voyage in the Rideau Canal by entering Canada's Capital city through the 8 locks that literally stairstep us up into Ottawa. This requires about three hours to traverse, and we were definitely ready for a break when we reached the top. As we have timed our arrival with July 1st, the equivalent to our 4th of July, Ottawa is a very busy place. The walls are lined with boaters and tourists who are here to share in the celebration. Canada Day turned out to be a rainy day, but it didn't seem to dampen anyones spirits. Many of the streets around Parliament Hill were closed to vehicle traffic, allowing the thousands of pedestrians free access to the roadways. There were a multitude of activities scheduled throughout the day, culminating in a wonderful fireworks display over the Ottawa River. Knowing we would not be seeing any fireworks on the 4th we just pretended these were ours too. The next week proved to be one of the nicest parts of our adventure so far. We traveled through the urban areas around Ottawa in the north, that gradually gave way to the lakes and marshes in the south, as we continued through the 46 locks of the Rideau. Along the way we visited a number of extremely friendly and picturesque villages. Met so many helpful, informative, congenial lock tenders at every station that our overnighters moored to lock walls became an unexpected highlight of our trip through the canal. Parks Canada has done an amazing job providing stunning parks along the canal for the use of transient boaters. It appears that it has almost become a competition between lockstations as to whom will have the most beautifully landscaped stop along our way. When we arrived in the lake region, it was time to put our nonresident Ontario fishing license to use. Anchoring in these beautiful waters while catching a few fish along the way was certainly no hardship! 

Our arrival below the first locks. There were many of us headed into the canal at this point, so Gud Nuff and Bama Dream had to ascend in two different groups. This worked out great, because it gave Ralph and Janet the opportunity to get a few pictures of us as we went through the first couple of locks, and we were able to return the favor as they completed their trip through lock 8.

There may be some disadvantages to having one of the larger boats looping, but I have discovered that when it comes to locking through these smaller canals in Canada it definitely has its advantage. I don't know if the lock tenders think we will run into the smaller vessels or not, but they always want us to lead the way.

We are securely attached to the cables as we prepare to ascend to the second lock. The proceedure is simple enough (at least when everything goes perfectly), I put a line through the second cable and hold on while Jess shuts off the engines and quickly grabs a cable at the stern and attaches a line. Easy enough, usually!

This group of day campers followed us along a few of the locks. I am not sure exactly how excited they were with this field trip, but they did have some interesting questions. One little girl wanted to know if she could go for a boat ride with us.

Jess should have a summary of our trip memorized by now. Everone wants to know where we are from, and then how on earth we got here from Alabama!

The canal walls are lined with boaters as everyone has arrived to celebrate Canada Day!

As the stairstep locks ascend into Ottawa Parliament Hill provides the scenery on your port side, while the castle-like Fairmont Chateau Laurier looms above your starboard side. Talk about a grand entrance!

One of the majestic government buildings on Parliament Hill. European influence is certainly more pronounced here than it is in the U. S., at least when it comes to architecture.

They just don't build them with this much detail anymore! 

Ottawa, just like Washington D. C., is home to statues and monuments on every corner. 

This is the Library of Parliament, the only remaining section of the original Parliament building, which burned in 1916. Built in 1876 it provides information, reference and research services for members of the Parliament. Sure looks different than the library I spent thirty years in!

A view of the 8 steps leading up into the beautiful city of Ottawa.

As darkness fell and the lights lit up the night sky the waterfront took on a whole new look. 

The military pageantry was exhibited throughout the city, as they celebrated their Independence Day!

One of the many cathedrals that grace this stunning skyline. Canadian flags were flying everywhere. We have discovered, as we continue our trek through Canada, that flying their countries flag is very important to a vast majority of Canadians.

The crowds were thick and exuberant as they waited for the fireworks to begin.

The fireworks display was fantastic! We were a little disappointed because we have become used to having our displays accompanied by Sousa and Lee Greenwood at home.

A bright, sunshiny day greets us as we pull away from the wall to continue out journey down the Rideau.

After Lock 12 we made our first stop to visit Hogs Back Falls. Construction of the canal between 1826 and 1832, changed the natural shape of the falls, but they are still an awesome example of the forces of nature. Our short stop here was extended when Janet and I realized our guys had disappeared. We spent at least 20 minutes searching for them before we found them patiently waiting for us on the other side of the road. We may both need leashes!

As we cruised through the canal we were entertained by some gliders enjoying this perfect day. I have always thought it must be an awesome feeling to soar through the air with no disturbing engine noise.

Bama Dream secured to another lock wall. Most of the locks have well manicured park areas along their walls with restroom facilities available. Several of the locks along the Rideau also offer power, enabling boaters to keep their generator usage to a minimum.

As we leave the more heavily populated areas the locks have fewer observers. The scenery has changed also as we see the more expected forestation and lakes of the north woods.

The water is rushing over this lock before we begin our rise to the next level. The Rideau Canal is a National Historic Site and is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the best-preserved 'slackwater' canal in North America, and the only canal from the great 19th century canal building era that still operates along its origional route and with most of its origional structures intact. With a very few exceptions, the gates and bridges are still operated by hand.

A stop in Merrickville after Lock 23 provided us with a sight we don't find at home in Alabama. In addition to the other playing fields in the park, this hockey rink stands ready for some freezing temperatures.

 

This is an example of the beautiful stonework the town of Merrickville is famous for. The flowers are amazing all through Canada. The days are long, providing plenty of sunshine, and the mild summertime temperatures don't burn up the plants.

Celebrating the 4th of July in Canada with new friends we have met along the way. Angie and Dan from Sea Horse, who we first met at the Rendezvous, and Janet and Ralph from Gud-Nuff, who we have been traveling with since we met them on the Hudson River, shared a nice meal and numerous stories at the Main Street Cafe. Our waitress was super nice, adding to our evening by finding a recording of America the Beautiful that she played over their sound system. We all proudly stood and added our patriotic voices to the music. It was great fun, but we will not be cutting a record!

 

The Rideau is actually a series of ditches that were dug in order to connect the many small lakes in this region. At times we cruised down very narrow passages and at other times we were in much wider bodies of water.

A quick stop at Smith's Falls in order to purchase nonresident Ontario fishing licenses and we are soon searching for fishy looking anchorages like this one!

There are so many bluegill in these waters that it is virtually impossible to drop a hook and not get a bite. Jess had to show off by putting two hooks on his line and quickly catching two at a time. That didn't last too long though, because between getting his fish off, and helping me with mine, he was spending way too much time handling fish and not enough time fishing. What a horrible situation to be in!

Another peaceful sunset in Canada. Listening to the loons call in the evenings is a wonderful way to end a lovely day on the water. Fighting off the multitude of bugs is not so great!

This rocky island in the middle of Sand Lake is called Birmingham Island. There was probably some Earl or Duke of Birmingham back somewhere in British history. 

Jones Falls locks are another stairstep set of three locks, so we had time to enjoy a walk while we waited for our turn. The Rideau Canal was actually designed and built shortly after the War of 1812. At that time the Canadians were still very much afraid that the dreaded Americans to their south would try to invade Canada, so many of the lockstations were built to resist attacks. 

This lock tender's residence was designed to enable the inhabitants to fend off attack from all sides. The structure is solid stone with rifle firing slits, and very few windows.

No lock here, just one more bridge that must be operated manually in order for us to pass. All along the canal the park employees are ready with a 'Good Morning' and 'Have a Great day'. It was such a pleasure to meet so many people that seemed to genuinely love their job and were happy that we were visiting their country.

As we come close to the end of our trip through the Rideau, our view as we enter a lock changes. We are no longer ascending, but are now descending to the river below. 

Some of the locks are connected to automobile bridges that must be opened either before of after we traverse the lock. While we wait to leave the lock, two young people use their muscles to swing the bridge around behind us. Some of the lock tenders are older, full time employees, but many of them are college students who are working for the summer.

Gud-Nuff as we leave the last lock upon our arrival in Kingston. What a fabulous 8 days!

The lift bridge rises to allow us to leave the River Styx and enter the St. Lawrence River again.

There were many boaters out enjoying a beautiful summer day on the water including this large group of sailboats preparing for a race. We are now on our way to Trenton, where we will begin our voyage through the Trent Severn Waterway.

Arrival in Canada

June 22-29

Days 223-230c

After sitting out a couple of rainy days, we finally turned Bama Dream north into Canadian waters. Clearing customs was no problem, then it was on to the Chambly Canal. As this was our first canal system in Canada it was time to purchase our season pass for the Canadian Parks system. The pass enables boaters to travel through any of the historic canals that connect the rivers and lakes across the eastern section of Canada. The locking pass and mooring pass combine to provide boaters the opportunity to experience this beautiful country at a leisurely pace. While paying for the pass is a relatively simple procedure that can be accomplished at the first lock the cruiser enters, it was also the first chance we had to use our bank debit card after entering Canadian waters. You guessed it! The second we had crossed into a foreign country our cards were instantly shut down. So, here we are tied off in the first lock with cards that won't work and phones that are not supposed to be used. Our first priority was getting our passes so that we did not block the lock any longer than necessary. We cringed and turned my phone on to call our bank. They were extremely helpful and in a matter of minutes we were on our way. As we progressed through the nine locks of the Chambly Canal we soon discovered that, unlike the locks we had experienced up to this point, locking through the historic canals in Canada is a spectator sport. There have been crowds watching our advance through the canal at virtually every lock. We have become Public Relations specialists for the AGLCA (America's Great Loop Cruisers Association), as we have repeated the story of our trip an unbelievable number of times. The Chambly Canal, opened in 1843 creating a navigable waterway along the Richelieu River. Its primary role at that time was the shipping of forest products from Quebec's forests to the United States' growing market. The towpaths, that were originally used by horses as they towed barges through the canals, are now used by bicyclists and walkers enjoying the beautiful countryside and small villages along the canal.

Preparing to enter the first of nine locks that we will encounter as we proceed north on the Chambly Canal. There are also 12 bridges that must be moved in order for us to pass. Most are in conjunction with the locks, so they are controlled by the lock tender when it is time for us to enter the lock.

We are given the green light, signaling that it is time for us to enter the lock. Other than a few exceptions all of the locks in Canada have been declared National Historic Sites and are under the administration of Parks Canada. They are meticulously cared for, keeping them in their original design as much as possible. The gates are opened and closed manually by park employees who all seem to love their jobs. We have locked through about 60 locks since entering Canada and every one of the Parks Canada employees have been fantastic. They have helped with lines and proudly offered information all along the canals.

This narrow canal allows boaters to travel around the many rapids of the Richelieu River. On the right, the bike and walking trail that runs along the canal for several miles can be seen.

This is a swing bridge that is manually swung out of our way as we progress through the canal. No one pushes a button, they actually use muscle power to swing the bridge around on a circular track.

There has been quite a bit of rain this spring causing the river to overflow into a low area beside the canal. We are glad that we have decided to take this route through Canada even though it means more miles and more locks. There has been so much high water in the Erie Canal that many of the locks have been closed, causing Loopers who chose to go that route to be stuck for days at a time.

This momma duck and her brood don't appear to be the slightest concerned that Bama Dream is headed their way. At our speed, she probably knows that she has plenty of time to get across. Of course, Jess would stop in the middle of the canal to let them pass it he had to.

Each of the locks have a structure called a lock house. Some of them are actually homes where the lockmaster lives, others, like this one at Lock 8 are used by park employees during operating hours.

Using a system of gears the lock tender regulates the flow of water into the lock, then cranks open the gates to allow us to continue. We were  surprised at how many people seemed to be out enjoying this beautiful Wednesday until we learned that today is a holiday in Quebec. They were all celebrating Saint Jean Baptiste Day. When we tied up to the wall in Chambly, we realized we were going to be able to be part of the celebration. A huge party would be taking place right across the canal with a live band (performing in French), a huge bonfire and fireworks! 

The small town of Chambly has some beautiful old homes and some great pizza! We had a rain shower in the evening, but it did not dampen the spirits of the revelers.

I seem to be taking pictures of churches everywhere I visit. I can't help it, they are always some of the most stunning architecture, in the most beautiful settings.

The final 3 locks on the Chambly drop us abruptly into Lake Chambly This was my first triplicate lock and I will admit I was just a little nervous. O.K., maybe quite a bit nervous! Just like everything else that has caused anxiety on this adventure, this turned out to be no big deal too.

After locking through the single lock at Saint Ours we are headed into the St. Lawrence River. It has been a long day, and we are looking forward to a peaceful night on anchor. That is if we can find the right spot.

With the help of some local sailers who directed us to the perfect anchorage, we were ready to relax.

As the sun went below the horizon the willow flies started rising out of the lake and every gull within five miles came for supper. It was really quite an amazing sight.

After chugging along behind us, this Coast Guard ship finally overtook us, as we continued down the St. Lawrence River on our way to Montreal. Even though he passed us, we would soon meet him again when we entered the seaway.

As we approach the city of Montreal, commercial traffic picked up. With the St. Lawrence Seaway opening up the Great Lakes to huge commercial ships, this area is a very busy seaport.

The 1976 summer Olympics were held in Montreal. Olympic Stadium provides a rather futuristic backdrop for the commercial waterfront.

Turning into the St. Lawrence Seaway as we arrive in Montreal, we pass by Six Flags close enough to hear the screams from the daring roller coaster enthusiasts.

After negotiating the small locks of the Chambly, the 2 locks we must transit in the seaway seem huge. Especially when we have to make room for the Coast Guard ship that had passed us earlier in the day.

As we rise through the lock, the bridge has to be raised in order for us to escape.

Our anchorage for the night was close enough to the city that we could see the steady stream of planes preparing to land at Montreal's International Airport. 

I have found my favorite kind of lock. Saint-Anne-De-Bellevue Canal, as well as some others, provides a floating dock that the lock employees tie your boat to. They grab your lines when you enter the lock, tie you off on the dock, and you sit back and relax. My idea of the perfect locking system! Saint Anne's lock provides our entrance into the Ottawa River.

The deeper Carillon Canal consists of one lock that bypasses an area of rapids in the Ottawa River. This lock replaced a system of 11 locks that moved boats around the rapids in a series of small increments. Very glad they decided one could do the job. The gate system here (unique in North America) is a little imposing as it consists of a guillotine weighing 200 tons

I had to include this picture. I mentioned earlier that we have told the story of our adventure numerous times as we have progressed through the locks. This is a prime example. Jess is on the front of our boat explaining the Loop to the guy on the back of the boat in front of us, and Ralph is standing on the upper helm of his boat explaining the same thing to the guy above. They could have saved some breath if they had gotten the two guys on the same level.

We were told by many fellow travellers that we should not miss visiting the Chateau Montebello. I am very glad that we listened, because our afternoon walk around the grounds was lovely. This is the manor house that was built by Louis-Joseph Papineau in the mid 1800s. The estate is now a museum and is a National Historic Site of Canada.

The Chateau Montebello began as a hunting lodge for the privileged. It is now (supposedly) the largest log structure in the world! The hotel and resort complex encompasses 65,000 acres of forrested wildlife sanctuary and 70 lakes on the shore of the Ottawa River. 

The lodge is surrounded by beautiful landscaping. The grounds and flowers are meticulously cared for.

It is impossible to grasp the enormity of the structure in a picture. The main structure contains the central lobby with four wings leading off at right angles.

Small, well tended gardens are tucked into every corner. 

The focus in the lobby is this enormous floor to ceiling four sided fireplace. I can't imagine how much wood they could burn in just one evening during the cold winter months.

There are three levels that branch off from the main lobby. The structure reminded us of the lodge in Yellowstone National Park, only on a much larger scale.

After a quick lunch, we are back on our boats headed toward Ottawa. The overcast skies didn't make for a great picture, but as we passed by Chateau Montebello you can get an idea of how far the structure extends from each side of the central dome.

We can see Ottawa, Canada's capitol city, looming on our horizon. We will be entering the Rideau Canal, below the Parliament building, as we begin the next chapter in our voyage.