Enjoying the Hudson River

June 14-21

Days 215-222

As we have continued our travels up the Hudson River, we have been rewarded with some of the most beautiful scenery you can imagine. This area that flows through the Catskills and the Adirondack Mountains of New York, before reaching the stunning views of Vermont, in general has been a very pleasant cruise. When we left the lock at Troy, it was time for us to make a major decision as to which route we would take at this point in our Loop. Until now, other than the side trips we had taken, the Great Circle route was pretty much straight forward with very few options. Now we were literally coming to a fork in the road as it were. Do we take the left fork through the Erie Canal and then on into Canada or do we keep to our right and go up the Champlain Canal into Lake Champlain and then on into Canada? After much discussion, we decided that we would take the longer route through Lake Champlain because heaven forbid we should bypass the locks in the Rideau Canal. Actually, we have had so many fellow Loopers tell us that we will love the Rideau that we just can't pass up this part of our trip in order to save a little time. Besides, this adventure is as much about what we experience along the way, as it is about just crossing our wake when we finish. After experiencing some strong winds and rough seas in Lake Champlain, we are now attached to a mooring ball in the harbor at Burlington, VT. and the weather is absolutely perfect. We will stay here for a couple of days while we enjoy this lovely town and Jess gets the oil changed in our engines, then it is off to Canada. While we are in Canada we will basically be off the grid again, so unless I find a wifi every now and then this will be the last post until we return to the U.S.

Much of the scenery along the Hudson reminded us of our own Tennessee River. There are beautiful cliffs and lush wooded areas along the banks. One huge difference is that this is the middle of June with highs in the 60s and low 70s, while I am sure it is much warmer in North Alabama right now.

It is amazing sometimes how different our view from the water can be. When we visited West Point by car I did not realize that there were so many large buildings all the way down to the banks of the river. Obviously our tour only touched on the vastness of this stunning campus.

Hopefully you can read the sign on the roof. When we took our tour it was pointed out to us several times how important to the cadets this is. Beat Navy was also on the list of important events.

This is the narrow channel above the fort at West Point that the Revolutionary forces pulled a chain across so that British ships could not proceed down river. 

The ruins of Banneman's Castle. This island castle has long been abandoned by its owner who was using it as an arsenal housing explosives, ammunition and Civil War relics. It was actually a warehouse for one of the first Army-Navy stores in NYC. You just never know what you might find along the river.

Modern technology seems to have made the lighthouses here either obsolete or unnecessary, as none of them appeared to be inhabited.

Apparently the lighthouses in the Hudson were built with the comfort of the keepers in mind, more so than the ones in the Chesapeake were.

We spent one night at the free dock in the older part of the city of Troy. Many of the businesses in this area have closed down and it is a shame to see so many of the old buildings in need of repair. The cost of upkeep must be astronomical though. This beautiful Catholic Church was built in1824, unfortunately many of the windows are boarded up.

Upon entering the Champlain Canal system there are some fixed bridges that are too low for us to get under with our mast up. With the help of some fellow loopers it is no problem for Jess to get it down and in the cradlle. Of course at some point we have to get it back up into its proper position again. Jess says it will be a breeze, we will see about that.

A stop in Troy gives us an opportunity to share a meal at Dinosaur Bar-B-Que with Ralph and Janet Babish on Gud-Nuff. They are taking the same route into Canada that we have chosen, so we will be enjoying their company for awhile. They are from Hayden, Co., a small town near Craig where we lived in 1975.

New York's capitol city, Albany, as we cruised by the waterfront. With threatening rain we chose not to make a stop here on our way to the Champlain Canal.

The fork in the road. Thank goodness we have decided on the Champlain, because we have heard since we went by the Erie that because of high water it has been temporarily closed, stranding many boaters between locks. 

The Champlain Canal consists of 11 locks. Eight going up and 3 going down into Lake Champlain. The locks are actually numbered 1-12 with no number 10. When the engineers first laid out the canal the plan included 12 locks, but they discovered when the building of the canal began that lock number 10 was unnecessary so they left it out. So they didn't have to redo all of the plans, they did not renumber the last 2 locks. This makes sense to everyone except the person that searches their charts extensively for lock number 10. Yes, that would be me.

Finally got Jess to take a picture from the upper helm while I am below with the lines. This is the spillway at one of the locks that actually produces power.

Looks like I have unleashed a monster. Jess has discovered that I am not the only one who should be documenting this journey.

This gives you an idea of why we had to lower our mast. Fortunately, we can get low enough to traverse this section of the loop. Many boats are not able to get under these fixed bridges, so they have to cruise the Erie Canal.

One of the dams along the canal system. Compared to the locks on the Tennessee River and the Tenn-Tom, these are not very deep. Most of them are only about 15 ft. up or down.

The heavy rains have caused the water to be a little muddy, but this is still a beautiful ride.

The outside wall of Lock number 7. We snuck by here on our way to a free dock at the historic town of Fort. Edward. The locks are only open until 6:00 p.m., so you have to spend at least one night along the way. Jess and I enjoyed a short walk around town and a nice supper in the Old Fort Restaurant.

There is a large dredging project going on through the canal, so we had to maneuver around many work boats as we made our way north.

At the north end of the canal is the village of Whitehall. This is just one of the many of the lovely towns along the riverbank. 

A gorgeous view of the cliffs and mountains before the river opens out into Lake Champlain.

Fort Ticonderoga was the site of several battles during the French and Indian War, as well as, the Revolutionary War. Before Benedict Arnold turned traitor he led a group of Green Mountain Boys that were successful in taking the fort from the British in May of 1775. Commanding this fort kept the British from moving down the Hudson until 1777 when British cannon from Mount Defiance placed Fort Ticonderoga back into British hands.

This majestic old inn has been restored and is now a resort and restaurant. It is supposedly so popular that reservations are required in advance. We haven't figured out how that can be done when we never know when we will arrive in any given place. 

The waterfront of Burlington, VT is full of life.  There are a couple of small marinas and a harbor crowded with moorings. All positioned behind a breaker wall that helps minimize the wave action coming off Lake Champlain.  Ferries and tour boats come and go taking people back and forth across the lake. This is a beautiful old college town with lots to see and do.

Historical homes, many of which have been turned into businesses, can be found on virtually every street.

O.K., I have to admit that finding ice cream stops has become very important to me. I think next time we take one of these selfies I am going to make Jess be in front, because my ice cream sure looks a lot bigger than his!

The Church Street Marketplace is a happening place on the weekends and during the summer tourist season. The street is strictly for pedestrian traffic and is lined with numerous shops and restaurants.

We are on the move again. Anchoring in this picturesque cove as we begin our trip north into Canada.

The Big Apple

June 5-13

Days 206-214

One thing we have learned about Loopers as our paths have crossed from time to time, is that we have many different takes on how we should prepare for each day's travels. Some Loopers record everything, from fuel consumption, miles travelled, engine hours, dockage fees and every minute detail in between. Others leave everything to chance. I think Jess and I fall pretty close to the latter. Other than keeping up with the important stuff that keeps Bama Dream functioning the way she should, we usually leave our daily travels to chance. We have a very good reason for using this laid back approach. It seems that most of the time when we take an hour or so out of our evening to plan for the next day or two something happens to change everything. Our evening would have been much better spent by playing a few games of cribbage (especially if I win). A prime example of this happened as we recuperated from our horrendous crossing of the Delaware River. We moved into an anchorage near Cape May and proceeded to check every weather and wind app we had at our disposal, in order to determine how long we would be staying in Cape May, and if we would be able to go outside to open water for the more direct route up the New Jersey coast, or if we would have to stay in the relatively shallow ICW until we reached Manasquan River Inlet. We literally hashed this over for at least a couple of hours before we decided we would visit Cape May for a few days, then stay inside for a run up to Atlantic City, hoping we could go outside at that point. Great! We have our plan set, right? Wrong, bright and early the next morning, as we are still in our pajamas and enjoying a second cup of coffee, the first set of Loopers cruise by. Then here comes Tumbleweed (met them in Baltimore) right behind them, all headed for open water. A brief radio discussion follows and we are quickly pulling anchor to join the caravan headed for Atlantic City. So much for all that time we spent planning.

Storm clouds were threatening as we arrived in the harbor at Atlantic City. They ended up moving off and we had a very nice evening at the Farley State Marina. We were told that it is not a good idea to walk from the marina to the boardwalk, so Jess and I just wandered through the Golden Nugget. It was fun joining the crowd watching American Pharoah take home horse racing's Triple Crown.

Don't know how we managed it, but some how we were docked on the same pier with several mega yachts. Boardwalk belongs to the owner of the Golden Nugget Casino and about 600 restaurants. All they did for us was block our view.

The weather is much better as we leave Atlantic City headed for a long day outside. Our plan is to get to an anchorage near Coney Island, which is about 80 miles from here. At 8 mph that makes for a long day on the water.

A long choppy ride became thrilling when Jess spotted a whale on our starboard side. Other than this splash I caught on camera as his tail sunk below the surface, I was never looking in the right spot at the right moment. Jess was lucky enough to see him breach twice before he was out of sight.

We made our anchorage and spent a quite night before entering the busy harbor around the Statue of Liberty. This is the best I could do for a picture of us with this awesome lady. With ferry boats and umpteen tour boats buzzing around, it is best to move on up the river as quickly as possible.

Our first up close view of the Manhattan skyline, with the new Freedom Tower taking its rightful place among the many skyscrapers. 

We spent two days anchored at the West 79th St. Boat Basin. The view of Riverside Park and the accessibility to the city made this a great stop. Unfortunately, the rough water and very strong current also made this an extremely uncomfortable stop. 

As you can see we haven't totally given up on selfies. How can you go wrong with this view in the background?

Our first afternoon was spent in Central Park. We walked and walked and still did not see it all. Of course I had to make a quick stop at FAO Schwarz to pick up a few little things. I still can't believe that this fun place is soon going to close its doors. I am glad I was able to shop there one more time before they are gone.

If we wanted to get back to the boat this evening we had to get some fuel for our dinghy, and this being New York City there is not a gas station on every corner. The closest one to our anchorage was 17 blocks away. It was actually a very nice walk through Riverside Park. Of course when your day's plan consists of visiting as many of the NY landmarks as possible, beginning with a 3 mile hike for a gallon of gasoline is not really such a great idea. 

Our first stop of the day was Ground Zero. The new Freedom Tower is stunning as it dwarfs all of the other skyscrapers nearby. The crowds were hugh here so we didn't take the time for the new 9/11 Museum on this trip.

In the background the new transportation hub takes shape. Several of the structures planned to replace the World Trade Center complex are still in the construction phase. The 9/11 Memorial area is complete with its museum and pools surrounded by the names of those that perished as a result of the 9/11 attacks. The pools are in the actual footprints of the original towers.

The Financial District, home to the New York Stock Exchange.

When you stop a random stranger to ask if they mind taking a quick picture for you, you may want to check to see if they have a child that is a camera hog. Oh well, it was just one more memorable moment. We did enjoy our walk on the Brooklyn Bridge.

Back on the subway for a quick trip to Grand Central Station. We did take a short break here for a drink and an ice cream.

Rockefeller Center, where the famous ice skating rink becomes a restaurant during the summer. 

Couldn't resist a walk through the huge Lego store at Rockefeller Plaza. 

If you look closely you will find Jess and I in the back of the crowd on Times Square. I have on a light green shirt and we are just in front of the vehicles.  

I must be getting old because I just don't remember the crowds being this large the last time I visited NYC. This was a Tuesday, and just walking down the sidewalk was difficult. It is still an exciting place to visit.

The Naked Cowboy (yes, he was on the other street corner) now has some competition. Meet the Naked Cowgirls. Thank goodness even in NYC a bikini is as close as they can get to the real thing.

We have had enough of the current, so we are heading about 30 miles up the Hudson River to Croton-on-the-Hudson to meet up with our friends on Aunt Aggie. The plan was to travel with them to Albany, but we have decided we are not quite ready to continue north, so we are going to stay here for a few days.

We rented a car for a day so that we could visit the U.S. Military Academy at West Point. The campus is beautiful with its stunning green landscape, surrounded by magnificent stone buildings. The land where the academy sits was the site of a fort overlooking the Hudson River at the time of the Revolutionary War.

This statue honoring American Soldiers was designed by the same man who created the Iwo Jima Memorial in Washington D.C.

A tour of West Point has to include a view of Michie Stadium where Army goes head to head with their opponents on the playing field.

The inspiring view across campus from in front of the cadet's chapel.

This is the first chapel that was constructed to provide a place of worship for the cadets, faculty, and staff. Until the 1970's all cadets were required to attend church services of the denomination of their choice. 

 

 

The stained glass windows lining the sanctuary are beautiful. Notice that all of the hymnals are set precisely in their shelves. Even here military precision can be found.

A view of the chapel from below. 

George Washington commanding his troups on the lawn in front of the barracks.

The West Point Academy focuses on academics, leadership, athletics, and military principles. Cadets are expected to serve at least 5 years in military service after they graduate. Other than a nominal fee for their uniforms and other necessities the education these cadets receive is free. If they choose not to finish their degree or do not fulfill their military commitment they must pay back the cost of their education. 

The Confederate War Memorial stands on the knoll overlooking the Hudson River. This war was traumatic for many reasons, but here at West Point it was especially so. Many of the battles on both sides were lead by West Point graduates who had been close friends while they were here. 

Each of the cannons carry the names of major battles between the North and the South. 

It was quite hazy across the river when we visited. This is the reason why West Point was so important to the outcome of the Revolutionary War. Whoever controlled this narrow passage was thought to have an advantage because they could control the flow of ships moving on the river. The Americans actually had a huge chain constructed and stretched across this point in the river. This is where Benedict Arnold turned traitor by attempting to allow West Point to be taken by British troops. 

Thayer Hall was originally the riding hall where cadets were taught horsemanship. It now houses academic classrooms. I thought it was interesting that a cadet can bring his or her horse to the academy with them as a freshman, but they can't have a car on campus until their third year.

 

This is the new library. The statue in front of the right corner is of General Patton. He is posed looking through binoculars across the parade ground. The story is that when asked why it took him five years to complete his studies, he replied it was because he couldn't find the library. When he died his wife had the statue commissioned to depict him still looking for the library.

A short ride through the hills and back across the Hudson brought us to the village of Sleepy Hollow.  After searching through the large historical cemetery we finally found the gravesite of Washington Irving. I swear I could hear the hoofbeats pounding up the gravel road behind me, carrying the Headless Horseman through the night.

This is the Old Dutch Church of Sleepy Hollow built in 1697. Church services are still held here during the summer months. Many of the very old headstones are no longer able to be read, but it sure turns back the clock as you walk amongst them and think about what their lives must have been like in the early days of our country.

Finding our way through town led us past this imposing structure. This is Sing Sing prison, a place I have no desire to visit.

A comfortable train ride back into the city, then a ride on the subway out to Flushing, and it is time for a Braves game.

Citi Field is the beautiful new ball field that replaced Shea Stadium in 2009. The subway dropped us off right across the street from Jackie Robinson Rotunda. We have been to several away games to see the Braves play, and we always have a great time. 

The flight path for LaGuardia Airport is directly over the stadium. Every 90 seconds another airliner gives us a flyover. It was a great game that stayed close to the very end. The Braves had their chances, but when the third out was made in the top of the 9th it was all over with the score of 5-3 Mets.

We had planned to leave the marina this morning, but the wind was blowing rather strongly and we have been joined by about 14 other Loopers. It is time for a docktail party, so we will hang in here one more day. Its a tough life, but we are doing our best to enjoy it.