Trying to Outrun Ana!

May 1-11

Days 171-181

A hurricane in May did not figure into our plans when we considered our trip through South and North Carolina. The early arrival of Ana encouraged us to head north as quickly as possible. Luckily she dilly dallied enough in the Atlantic to afford us plenty of time to outdistance most of her fury.  As luck would have it, Ana only developed into a tropical storm, and from our stand point, not a very vicious one at that. A short visit in Georgetown was necessary, as we were having a package from home delivered to us at the marina. Planning to put in some long days after leaving Georgetown, we took the opportunity to enjoy this lovely historical town. Our timing was perfect, because just by chance we were able to get tickets to see the local theatrical group perform Driving Miss Daisy. They did an awesome job, and we both enjoyed spending our afternoon in this unexpected manner. On Monday night we tied up to the free dock in North Myrtle Beach. A nice walk to the mall around the corner (well sort of), allowed us to check out a new Bass Pro Shops, pick up a few things in Belk, and have an amazing meal at a nearby restaurant, the Firehouse Bar & Grill. Love it when these unplanned for perks just happen. The next night we anchored just north of Southport near what we soon learned (by the noise) is a bird sanctuary.  Don't know how the birds figure out where the sanctuaries are, but I can vouch for the fact that literally thousands of them know where that one is. Not the quietest night we have spent on anchor.  The next anchorage proved to be even noisier for a much different reason. We dropped the hook with several other cruisers in a small cove near Camp Lejeune Marine Corp Base. What an entertaining evening. An Osprey was evidently performing some training maneuvers, and we had front row seats. There was also a lot of bombing going on somewhere nearby. Shortly after dark the marines headed back to base and we all enjoyed an uneventful night. Actually, the only part of our speedy (if you can call about 8.5 mph speedy) trip north that was effected by Ana, was our crossing of the Pamlico Sound. The wind was strong enough in this large open water area that we experienced, what I deemed to be, substantial waves. With strong thunderstorms and high winds forecasted, we decided it was time to tie up in a small secure marina, putting our trip up the Dismal Swamp off for a few days.

Not sure if the birds are looking for fish in our wake, or if they just like the way the wind flows around the boat, but we seem to have quite a noisy following as we travel these days.

So far we have had only a few short rain showers, but the clouds have been moving in during the day. Negotiating the hundreds of crab pots in the area has been more of a problem than weather at this anchorage on the Santee River. 

The scenery along the AICW has not really been what I would call awe inspiring. After miles and mile of saw grass and marshes I am ready for some trees.

 

Georgetown is the 3rd oldest town in South Carolina. It was laid out in 1729 and became an important seaport by 1732. The historic waterfront area provides visitors with a look into the history of this area, as well as many fine restaurants and shops. 

This beautiful fountain is part of the stunning landscape that leads visitors onto the grounds of the Kaminski House Museum.

The Kaminski House predates the Revolutionary War. It was built in 1769, changing hands many times over the years. In 1931 the property was purchased by Harold and Julia Kaminski, and upon her death in 1972 it was bequeathed to the city in hopes that it would be established as a historic museum.

The door you see opens onto a porch leading to the actual entrance of the home. At the time these homes were built taxes were determined by the amount of street frontage the lot had. Therefor homes were built one room wide and several rooms deep. The door provided residents privacy on their porch.

There are picturesque moments everywhere in Georgetown. 

This is Bethel Church AME (African Methodist Episcopal). It was established in 1863 shortly after the Emancipation Proclamation.

A glance down the historical business district, including the old Strand Theater that is now home to the Swamp Fox Players.

As we continue northward the landscape begins to include trees along the banks. We have seen turtles, eagles, osprey, and snakes, but no more alligators.

Traveling along the AICW means we are inland from the coast, so we don't see many lighthouses. This one was actually alerting cruisers that the Lightkeeper's Marina is located up the channel.

Talk about a view! If my boat was at the top of this dry storage rack, there is no way I would be able to stand by while it was placed in the water. They looked like a small breeze would send them toppling to the ground.

I don't know what is in worse shape. The old dock or the boat. Anyone looking for a fixer upper?

A beautiful sunset over Southport, S.C.  This was about the time the birds got going good, and our peaceful anchorage was not so peaceful after all.

The bridges along this section of the AICW do not open on demand. Most open on the hour and half hour, with some only opening on the hour.  This usually causes a minor traffic jam as we all wait patiently. We would have made it to the previous opening, but a little shallow spot set us back about thirty minutes. An opening in the landscape to our right allowed us a small glimpse of breaking waves on the beach at a moment when we should have been paying better attention to the markers. Being on the wrong side of the green meant we were a foot or so short of enough water to keep our keel from going aground. The fantastic captain that he is, Jess managed to work us off the sandbar and we went merrily (with a huge sigh of relief) on our way.

The bridge tenders along our route have all done a great job. We even got a "Roll Tide" from one guy. Actually we have been thrilled to receive "Roll Tides" everywhere we have been.

This is the first Osprey we had ever seen in action. They were evidently performing some training exercises that kept us all entertained for a couple of hours. 

Another amazing sunset over our anchorage near Camp Lejeune.

Our numbers have increased, as we are all trying to get as far north as possible before Ana comes ashore. We prefer traveling around 40 miles a day, but this week we have been cranking out 70 to 80 each day. 

While we had been concerned about our crossing of the Albemarle Sound, it turned out to be not even close to as rough as the Pamlico Sound had been. We have decided at this point to take a break for a few days and let what is left of Ana go on by us. This is one of those days that luck was with us. I called a marina in the harbor at Elizabeth City to see if they had any transient dockage available, but they did not answer. Then I called Lamb's Marina just into the Dismal Swamp and luckily they had room for us.  When we passed by the first marina we realized that they were open to the rough water and we would have been rocking and rolling our whole stay.  Lamb's has been great!

One last bridge opening before entering the Dismal Swamp.

When we were in the Bahamas sundown was signaled by the sound of conch shells being blown by a few talented travelers. One of the live a boards here at Lamb's Marina has his own little cannon that he fires off as the sun dips into the west. 

These roses were transplanted to Marina Wharf Park after the death of Joe Kramer in 1987. He and a friend, Fred Fearing, began what was to become the Rose Buddies tradition in 1983. Joe provided roses and Fred provided refreshments to boaters as they traveled the Intracoastal Waterway. Thus Elizabeth City became known as the Harbor of Hospitality.

Using the marina's courtesy car we were able to enjoy a nice walk around the historical district of Elizabeth City. We also made a trip to McDonald's, a grocery store, Walmart, Ace Hardware and Dairy Queen. What more could anyone need (other than possibly West Marine)?

As you can see the wind is causing the harbor to get quite choppy. So glad we are back in a little creek where the water is calm.

So many architecturally interesting old homes. There are many that need some major restoration work, but just as many that have been well cared for or renovated to show their original splendor. Another very charming seaport town along the AICW.

Moving North on the AICW

April 23-30

Days 163-170

After spending the past 5 months in Florida (counting the side trip to the Bahamas) it is finally time to leave this beautiful state behind us. The scenery changes rapidly as we move into the sawgrass country of Georgia and South Carolina. It is certainly interesting, even though it can become rather boring after miles and miles of grassland. Everything was going great until we developed a problem with our starboard engine and a horrible racket started coming from the area of our port engine. Not good! Jess finally tracked down the second problem as nothing to do with the engine (thank goodness). Somewhere in our travels we had evidently connected with a crab pot (really!) and the line had tangled in our cutter on the port shaft. With some time in the water he was able to get most of the line loose and the problem corrected itself. The starboard issue was a little more stressful. It actually died on us while we were dropping anchor and would not crank the next morning. Time to creep into a marina to hopefully get us back up and running under full power. Of course the wind was blowing ninety to nothing as we headed to Brunswick and St. Andrew's inlet was raging. We puttered along on one engine, and while we were a little uncomfortable, we made it to safe harbor with no problems. The best part of the day turned out to be seeing a ray leap out of the water twice right in front of us. It is an awesome sight that we have been lucky enough to witness twice so far on this adventure.  It was also great to see Roger and Mary on TaTa for a few minutes when we arrived at the marina. They were on their way north and hung around just long enough to help with our lines and say hello. Just like so many other times on this journey, we soon met new friends, Terry and Donna on their Albin 36, Meridian. Terry came right over to help Jess diagnose our engine problems and between these two brilliant minds, and a substantial amount of trial and error, our starboard engine was back in running order.  Serenity and Mara Belle, whom we had last seen at the Rendezvous were also here, so we enjoyed catching up with them at docktails. As our goal was to catch up to TaTa as quickly as possible, we put in a couple of long days in order to meet them on anchor at Hilton Head. A nice walk and a stop for Happy Hour left us with enough time for a nice game of Euchre.  Our short break must have been good for Mary and I, because for the first time we won back to back matches! It was nice to  visit with Roger and Mary again even if it was only for a few days. Hopefully someday we will make it to  British Columbia to see their beautiful province.

 Back in the ICW headed north. Luckily for us most of the bridges we have to negotiate have enough clearance for us to slip under.  Many of the railroad bridges are left open, as this one is, unless there is a train on its way.

After spending a few hours struggling with the engine (and having no luck), Jess decided it was time to take a break. We enjoyed a walk around the historical area of Brunswick. This is one of the most unique war memorials we have run across in out travels.

Shows how smart I am. I had never connected brunswick stew with the town of Brunswick, GA.

Unfortunately the pot was empty. We did enjoy a very nice meal with Terry and Donna at Indigo Coastal Shanty on Saturday night. 

After resting on the problem Friday night and a quick trip to West Marine on Saturday morning, my mechanic (thank goodness), is back in the engine room.  A few hours later, with a minimal amount of frustration and the engine is once again humming. No big deal!

The old homes are beautiful, but the trees are absolutely breathtaking!  The huge old oak trees that shade the streets are amazing. Thank goodness Asplundh hasn't been here!

The grounds that surround the old courthouse are groomed to perfection. This is what the old south looked like, at least as I think of it.

There seems to be no limit to the design of stunning sailing ships.  This gorgeous lady was waiting for the finishing touch just north of Savannah.

We never seem to leave crab pots far behind us in our travels. It has just become part of our navigation strategies. Traveling the ICW is a little easier than open water, because they are usually placed just outside of the channel.

Even though the Sam Varnedog Bascule bridge would have had enough clearance for Bama Dream, it had to be opened for the sailboats ahead of us.

Finally back with our traveling buddies, Roger and Mary on TaTa. We anchored in the harbor at Hilton Head. Then we stretched our legs with a nice walk and found the perfect spot to enjoy Happy Hour. Had a great evening catching up on cruising stories and beating the guys 2 out of 3 at Euchre.

Sunrise means it is time to pull anchor and continue our journey north. Dolphins greeted us as they swam by our boat in their search for breakfast. Our next stop, Beaufort, SC.

If you are ever in Beaufort, make sure you find a place called The Fillin' Station. We were fortunate to be here on a Tuesday night when they serve crab legs for $12.00. They do have a very limited menu, one item each evening, Tuesday through Friday. Don't go there if you are in a hurry. Plan on at least two hours, but with a few drinks and wonderful friends to share stories with, who is in a hurry anyway? Terry and Donna pulled into Lady's Island Marina as we were headed for shore and they invited us to join them.

I think Jess has found his new favorite place. Roger and Mary joined us after they had made a quick tour of the historical area of Beaufort. What a wonderful evening!

Time to put the dinghy up in preparation of a long Dayan the water.  We have experienced quite a bit of rain lately, so before we could lift her, Jess had to do a little bailing. We had planned to spend our day touring Beaufort, but the weather prediction was not favorable, so we decided to continue north.

The black clouds threatened most of the day. For a short time they did a sight more than threaten, but we persevered and finally put in at a nice anchorage in Church Creek. Around rain storms Jess managed to cook us a great meal and Mary and I won two more games of Euchre. We are on a roll.

 

The current was strong in the cut as we were coming into Charleston. Luckily it was going our way. We saw speeds of 11mph! Wow, hold onto your hat!

The aircraft carrier USS Yorktown is docked in the harbor here for visitors to tour. We saw more commercial traffic here than any of the other ports we have visited. Our choice of marinas was fantastic for our short stay, because of its proximity to downtown Charleston. Can't say that it was the best choice for ease of docking though. We stayed at Charleston Maritime Marina which is great except for the strong current getting in and out of the docks. The story of leaving here will wait for another time.

The Second Presbyterian Church founded in 1809. This is just one of the many stately structures we found as we enjoyed walking around Charleston.

Charleston City Market provides the perfect spot for local artisans to sell their creations. Making baskets out of seagrass is a craft that has been kept alive by local craftsmen. We also found dried okra that is absolutely amazing! Wish I knew where to get more.

Time for a short break to rehydrate. Southern Brewery & Smokehouse provided us with a nice snack and a drink as we sat outside tourist watching.

Rainbow Row is a famous spot on the tour of Charleston. Very pretty street close to the waterfront.

Jess was not behaving while we were trying to get this shot by the fountain on the waterfront.

Need somebody good with photoshop to take out the guy walking by behind us. Oh well, the day was fantastic and the fountain was beautiful.

Roger and Mary do better with selfies than we do. Neither Jess nor my arms are long enough to get the camera far enough away from our faces.

One more night and it is time to say good-bye to Roger and Mary again. They will finish the loop when they get back to Canada so they are not in any hurry to head north. We still have a long way to go!